Both are from Mazda 3 2. I'm pretty confident the stator, like you said, is toast on the torque converter. I'm assuming there should be zero play on the output shaft, correct?
Yup, I plan on checking the lateral movement on the crank tomorrow. Any thoughts on damage to the flexplate? It's a pretty sturdy piece of metal, so I'm guessing I'm OK there. Thank for your comments. Am I understanding that correctly? Since obviously the flexplate isn't going anywhere, and the TC is free moving along the input shaft. The only thing I see on the transmission pump is the keyed part where the TC slides on is damaged.
But since I don't want to take any risks, and I'm not sure what else I would be looking at on this pump, I went ahead and ordered a new one. New pump and TC should arrive on Monday. I'm looking through the manual, I don't see a spec for the output shaft endplay. Originally Posted by MechanicalDoll.
A manual always helps for SOB tasks. Damn I've been looking for the service manual for this damn car forever now! And we tried without the grease first I'l try that this weekend! Thx If anyone else has any suggestions, let me know Lux Hauler. Is the converter a remanufactured unit? If you're trying to pull it out perhaps you could utilize the threaded holes where the flywheel fastens to the converter, bolt some sort of "handle" to it.
I would only use transmission fluid to lubricate things in there. All the converter swaps I have done, there are 3 stages of engagement for the converter not just 2. Keep rotating clockwise till you feel a 3rd engagement is my suggestion.
But, again I have never done it on a foreign car, just domestic. Status: "Door-to-door Monkey salesman. Location: Brawndo-Thirst-Mutilator-Nation. The engagement of the TC has to go a certain way. Take a tape measure and very carefully check the distance between the bolt holes Originally Posted by PsykoKustomz. If I'm understanding this correctly, the converter came out and now you're just trying to re-install it. With one foot on the brake pedal, press the accelerator all the way for seconds with the other foot.
Be careful not the exceed 5 seconds or the transmission could blow out. The stall speed is the RPM the engine maxes out at. An RPM reading lower than your engine and torque converters specifications means that the torque converter need a repair or replacement. An unusually high RPM reading indicates a slip in the transmission, which will have to be investigated.
Diagnosing torque converter issues could be a challenge, but there are several signs you can look for, and a set of simple tests you can conduct to determine whether the torque converter is causing the problem in your car.
There could be a lot of things that could cause problems in the torque converter. Below are some of the most common:. Wear and tear in torque converters will cause the vanes to bend, resulting in slow shifting or failure to drive. A symptom of bent vanes is that the engine will rev higher than usual, with the sound turning normal as the system warms up. Torque converter issues are a possible cause of such issues in the vehicle. Some of the most common forms issues with the torque converter may show up in are highlighted below:.
A rather simple test can determine whether the torque converter is failing. This is how to carry it out:. Issues in the torque converter can easily be mistaken for other issues, which is why they are hard to diagnose. But assessing the symptoms will allow you, but more preferably the technician, to timely diagnose and repair the issue before a faulty transmission does more damage than it already has. Think you have a bad torque converter? Buy new torque converters online at RoadrunnerConverters.
Shop online or call us and we will help you select the best new torque converter for your vehicle, your needs, and your budget.
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